red stem elephant ear plant Alocasia 'Imperial Red'

red stem elephant ear plant Alocasia 'Imperial Red'Alocasia 'Imperial Red' Alocasia 'Imperial Red' is a large hybrid Alocasia with broad green leaves, sturdy petioles and red to burgundy tones most visible on the undersides and stems. With enough root room, it can produce larger elephant ear style leaves on thicker petioles. Its parentage is Alocasia odora Alocasia macrorrhizos 'Pink Petiole'. The cross produces a warm growing plant with broad blades and upright petioles. Broad foliage with red detail

Alocasia 'Imperial Red'

Alocasia 'Imperial Red' is a large hybrid Alocasia with broad green leaves, sturdy petioles and red to burgundy tones most visible on the undersides and stems. With enough root room, it can produce larger elephant-ear-style leaves on thicker petioles.

Its parentage is Alocasia odora × Alocasia macrorrhizos 'Pink Petiole'. The cross produces a warm-growing plant with broad blades and upright petioles.

Broad foliage with red detail

• Foliage: Large green blades with colour contrast strongest below the leaf.
• Stems: Petioles can show red, pink or burgundy tones depending on maturity and growing conditions.
• Scale: With enough root room, warmth and feeding, it can produce larger leaves and thicker petioles.
• Hybrid background: Alocasia odora × Alocasia macrorrhizos 'Pink Petiole'.
• Breeding background: Bred by LariAnn Garner of Aroidia Research.

Aroidia hybrid background

Alocasia 'Imperial Red' was bred by LariAnn Garner of Aroidia Research, using Alocasia odora as one parent and Alocasia macrorrhizos 'Pink Petiole' as the other.

This is a larger-growing Alocasia with broad leaves, strong petioles and a root system that can fill a pot quickly. Give it space above the pot, a stable container and enough clear indirect light to keep the petioles firm. Repot once roots circle the container.

Active growth in the pot

Large active leaves use more water and nutrients than compact jewel-type Alocasia, especially in warm, bright conditions. Water thoroughly, but do not leave the pot sitting wet for days.

• Light: Use a large bright window or grow light. With clear indirect light, new leaves can come out larger and petioles may show more red; direct sun can scorch the blades.
• Watering: Water deeply once the upper few centimetres of mix begin to dry. Active plants may need shorter intervals in warm conditions.
• Substrate: Use a coarse aroid mix with bark, coco chips, pumice or perlite and a fertile moisture-holding component.
• Pot choice: Use a stable pot that balances the leaf mass while still matching the root ball.
• Temperature: Keep the plant warm, especially after watering. Around 20–30 °C, roots use water faster and new leaves form more easily.
• Humidity: Even humidity reduces dry margins and stuck edges on broad new leaves.
• Feeding: Feed at moderate strength during leaf production. Flush occasionally if salts collect in the mix.
• Repotting: Repot when the plant is actively growing. Move up gradually, because an oversized pot can stay wet around a small root ball.
• Propagation: Propagate by division, offsets or cormels when available. Wait for firm growth points and enough roots before separating.
• Mineral substrates: Established plants can adapt to inert mineral or semi-hydro substrates when the roots are firm, old organic mix is removed and temperatures stay warm.

Petiole colour and root health

• Leaning petioles: Rotate the pot and check whether the plant is reaching for a stronger light source.
• Yellowing after a cold spell: Inspect the lower mix and keep the root zone warmer before watering again.
• Brown edges: Review watering volume, humidity and fertiliser strength.
• Soft crown or stem base: Check the roots quickly. Large Alocasia can decline fast when cold, wet substrate stays around the base.
• Small new leaves: Move it to brighter filtered light, check whether roots have filled the pot, and feed only if the roots are firm.
• Pest marks: Check the undersides of broad leaves for mites and thrips during warm dry periods.

Flowering and mature size

Mature Alocasia 'Imperial Red' may produce a spathe and spadix like other aroids. Indoors, it usually holds broad leaves on red-toned petioles rather than flowering.

Handling broad leaves

Alocasia 'Imperial Red' has irritating sap and plant tissue. Keep broad leaves and cut stems away from pets and children, and wash your hands after pruning or division.

Red petioles behind Imperial Red

The genus name Alocasia refers back to Colocasia, a related aroid genus. 'Imperial Red' points to the red, pink or burgundy tones visible in the petioles and leaf undersides of mature plants.

Give it overhead space; mature plants can build broad leaves on tall, red-toned petioles.